Wednesday, September 29, 2004
Dark-meat chicken retains more flavor on the grill.
By JOYCE ROSENCRANS
SCRIPPS HOWARD
Jamaicans know something most Americans choose to ignore: Dark-meat chicken is much better for grilling than white-meat chicken breasts. Thighs, drumsticks and leg quarters have more flavor, a slightly higher fat content and a substance called collagen that makes these parts better suited to the hot, direct heat of a grill.
The collagen melts during the cooking process, keeping the dark meat moist and flavorful. Even if slightly overcooked, dark-meat chicken doesn't seem quite as tough and dry as a chicken breast.
The Jamaican specialty of grilled meats with jerk seasoning -- practically a national dish -- is much better with whole chicken legs (or pork) than with chicken breasts. Dark-meat chicken stands up to bold marinades and seasoning. (Jerk seasoning is peppery, sure, but its distinctive touch is ground allspice berries. Allspice trees grow all over the island of Jamaica.)
For decades, American poultry producers have exported a lion's share of dark-meat chicken parts to other countries, such as Jamaica, or wherever it's appreciated.
Dark-meat chicken parts need longer on the grill than breast meat -- especially bone-in leg quarters -- but the total time involved is still less than one hour, even if cooked from the raw state over glowing coals.
Avoid the microwave
Some cooks prefer to save grilling time by microwaving dark-meat chicken until partially done, then immediately transferring it to finish over the coals. This is risky because microwaves tend to make chicken a bit chewy and tough.
Also, it's risky to partially cook meat and finish it later, due to continuing harmful bacterial growth in partially cooked meats and the resulting foodborne illness.
So why not take the time to cook dark-meat chicken from the raw state low and slow on the grill? It will probably taste better if the fire is moderate, and the meat will surely be more tender than if microwaved first. Properly grilled, dark-meat chicken is good to the bone.
When grilling chicken over charcoal, light coals and then divide the bottom of the grill into three sections: one section with no coals, a middle section with a single layer of coals and a third section with twice as many coals as the middle section.
As recommended by the National Chicken Council, begin cooking chicken on the hottest section (the one with the most coals), and then move to the middle or other side of the grill to finish cooking.
If using a gas grill, start by searing the chicken over medium-high heat. Then turn off a burner and place chicken over that burner to continue grilling on the indirect heat.
Always use a meat thermometer to gauge doneness of chicken. Bone-in parts should reach an internal temperature of 170 degrees; boneless and skinless parts about 160.
The National Chicken Council and the U.S. Poultry & amp; Egg Association asked two top culinary schools to develop new recipes for grilling. The recipe for Pan-Asian chicken thighs was created by the Illinois Institute of Art Cooking School in Chicago. The recipe for glazed chicken drumsticks is from the Culinary Institute of Virginia College in Birmingham, Ala.
PAN-ASIAN CHICKEN ESCABECHE
6 chicken thighs, boneless, skinless
1 tablespoon Chinese five-spice powder
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon salt, divided
1 teaspoon black pepper, divided
Vegetable salad
1 red and 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded, quartered
1 jalapeno, seeds discarded
2 (5-ounce) cans water chestnuts
1 peeled carrot, cut in 1-inch chunks
1 English cucumber, skin on, cut in chunks
2 radishes, halved
1 red onion, quartered
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons each chopped cilantro and parsley
In a large plastic zipper bag, combine five-spice powder, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and pepper. Add chicken thighs, seal and turn to coat. Marinate chicken in the fridge 1 hour or overnight.
While chicken is marinating, prepare the vegetables for same: Place bell pepper pieces (red and yellow), jalapeno, drained water chestnuts, carrot, cucumber, radishes and red onion (or a Vidalia) in bowl of food processor with steel blade in place. Rough-chop by pulsing. Or julienne vegetables by hand.
Transfer vegetables to a large bowl. Add garlic, lime juice, 1/4 cup olive oil, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper. Place bowl in fridge and allow to sit for 1 hour or overnight.
When ready to grill, prepare a gas or charcoal grill. Drain marinade from chicken and discard. Place chicken thighs on grill and cook, turning, until done throughout, about 6 minutes per side. Cool and shred meat coarsely with two forks back-to-back.
Add chicken to vegetable salad mixture. Add cilantro and parsley; stir well to combine.
Yield: 4 servings.
BALSAMIC MAPLE-GLAZED DRUMSTICKS
8 chicken drumsticks
1 teaspoon each salt and black pepper
Glaze
1 orange, zested and juiced
3/4 cup real maple syrup
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped
For glaze: In a small saucepan over high heat, combine orange juice (1/2 cup), maple syrup, balsamic vinegar, mustard, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Bring mixture to boil. Lower heat to medium-high and simmer until sauce has reduced and thickened, about 15 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in orange zest (about 11/2 tablespoons) and basil. There should be about 1 cup glaze.
Preheat gas grill or prepare charcoal. Sprinkle drumsticks with 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Grill, turning occasionally, until chicken is cooked throughout, about 35 minutes. During last five minutes of grilling, begin to brush glaze onto the chicken. Keep heat at medium-low and brush on glaze in light layers, every minute or so.
Yield: 4 servings.