Sunday, April 18, 2004
Trims are easier to control when sewing by hand.
By SUSAN KHALJE
SCRIPPS HOWARD
For the past couple of weeks, I've been teaching classes on jackets, and I'd like to share some of the trimming options my students used.
Our jackets were fitted, and for the most part, the fronts abutted. The jackets were embellished with trims down the front, around the neck, and at the ends of the sleeves.
There were buttons and pockets, too, but it really was the trims that made the jackets unique -- the icing on the cake, so to speak. And along with gorgeous fabric, careful fit and beautiful workmanship, the jackets were very wonderful.
One option for trim is to unravel some of the fashion fabric and form it into a braid. The color match is perfect, of course -- and to set the braid apart from the underlying fabric, it can be placed over a contrasting piece of grosgrain ribbon.
The fabric stores are full of trims (don't overlook the home decorating department), and if one doesn't seem substantial enough, then two trims (or two rows of the same trim) can be laid side to side.
Sometimes the fabric's own selvedge is attractive enough to use for a trim, but if it's not, you can easily create your own by fringing the fabric. And remember that many novelty fabrics (those which combine a variety of fibers) can look quite different depending on whether the warp is fringed or the weft is fringed.
Either way, you'll need to stabilize the fringe with a row of tiny machine stitches just where the fringe starts. As for applying trims, I find it best done by hand -- you'll have far better control than sewing them on by machine.
Quick stitch
You'll be able to place them exactly where you need them to go, and you'll be able to control curved edges and corners much more easily by hand than machine. I usually use a fell stitch (also called an applique stitch) -- it's a stitch that's strong, fairly quick to do, and has the advantage of showing only the tiniest bit of thread on the surface of the garment. You may have to use a number of rows of stitches when applying your trim -- one on each side, at least, and possibly more if you're layering trims.
The fashion magazines are full of beautifully trimmed garments to inspire you -- I think you'll find that they'll add a very special touch to your next jacket project.
XFor more information, visit www.SusanKhalje.com or www.diynet.com.