Sunday, November 24, 2002
An earthquake could snap off a rigid connector, triggering an inferno.
By JAMES and MORRIS CAREY
ASSOCIATED PRESS
Natural disasters are all the more devastating when exacerbated by mankind.
Take for example the Loma Prieta earthquake that drastically shook San Francisco in 1989. We were called in by several local TV stations to report on what had happened from a housing standpoint, and to show Northern Californians how to reduce damage in the event of a future occurrence.
We were spellbound when we visited the marina district and found home after home that had been brought to the ground in seconds by Mother Nature. Fortunately, what we didn't find were a lot of burnt-out buildings -- a normal aftermath of this kind of disaster. What we did find were homes and office buildings throughout the area that were primed and ready for a major fire. Here's why: Most of the gas appliances that we surveyed (furnaces, water heaters, radiant-heating systems, boilers, dryers and ranges) were connected directly to gas supplies through a solid pipe -- a definite and dangerous no-no. The danger stems from the fact that there is no give between an appliance and its gas supply line when rigid pipe connects the two. When a gas appliance is vibrated by earthquake movement a rigid gas supply line can easily result in a broken pipe connection. Add a few sparks or a flickering pilot light and a major disaster worsens.
Correcting the problem
But you can prepare for such an eventuality by making a tiny investment in replacement parts and by devoting a weekend of your time to your safety and that of your family. Just make sure that the connection between every one of your gas appliances, and their respective supply lines, is made with a flexible hookup.
Note: Purchasing high-quality parts is important here. Believe it or not, a cheap gas shut-off valve (gas cock) is more likely to leak than not. It is frustrating when the task of replacing the connection is completed, a leak test is made and a gas leak is discovered -- not in one of your connections -- but in the valve that saved you $4. Take our word for it. With low-budget gas cocks, 90 percent of the time you will find the leak in the valve, not the connections.
Changing out your old rigid connection is easy, but you must first be sure to shut off the gas at each of your gas appliances. Do this whether you intend to change all the connections or not. And be prepared to relight pilots on all of these units when the job is done.
Flexible gas tubing is made of soft copper. It is corrugated so that it will bend easily and has flare fittings at both ends. No matter how your appliance is configured or how the incoming gas line is set up, both can easily be adapted to accommodate a flare connection. It is important for the tubing to be placed straight onto the flare connector. Keep the beginning of a bend just a tiny distance away from the connector.
How to do it
Assembly:
UFirst, connect the gas cock to the incoming gas line. Extend the gas line as necessary with prefabricated fittings and nipples so that once the valve is mounted it will be easy to access. We suggest you use a quick-throw valve with a long easy-to-turn handle.
UNext, add the necessary adaptor(s) to your appliance so that it will accept a flare fitting.
UFinally, connect the flare fittings on the appliance and the supply with the flexible copper connector. Don't worry about using a little force here when tightening the connections.
UOnce the connections are made, turn on the gas and perform a leak test.
This test is easy. Fill a spray bottle with water and a couple of teaspoons of liquid dish soap. Spray the concoction onto all joints and the valve. Any leak will cause the liquid to bubble.
Once your work is completed, relight all of your appliances, but first get the air out of the line so the gas can get to the pilot.
XFor more home improvement tips and information visit www.onthehouse.com on the Web.