New museum exhibit is very colorful display

The crimson shade now is the center of attention in a fashion show in New York.
NEW YORK -- In the 1950s red was the color of communism. In the '80s it was Nancy Reagan's favorite color and, oddly enough, came to represent the Reagan White House.
Red is also the subject for poets, as in Robert Burns' "My Love is like a red, red rose." It is a symbol for sexuality for fashion designers, and the star of a new fashion exhibition at the Museum at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology. The show opened last week, in the midst of New York Fashion Week, and runs through April 20.
The show is a reminder of the overwhelming power of the crimson tide. "I just kept telling the curators, 'Think hot. Red hot,'" says Valerie Steele, the chief curator and acting director of the museum.
In history: The color, of course, was worn by soldiers (Red Coats) in the 18th century. When the Virgin Mary was depicted in art, she was often pictured wearing red. Today it is used for danger signs, Target's bull's-eye logo and the AIDS ribbon. It stands for sin in the Puritan ethic. And it is a traditional symbol of happiness for Chinese brides. "No other color, other than black, has such a rich body of associations," Steele says.
Steele, a fashion historian, said she was surprised to learn that red actually has physiological effects, triggering a rise in heart beat and blood pressure.
Grand gowns: The show was assembled from the museum's collection of 50,000 garments and 30,000 textiles as well as loans from private owners. It opens with a mannequin in Adrian's red bridal gown Joan Crawford wore in the 1937 film "The Bride Wore Red."
Gowns from the past include styles from Mainbocher and Charles James. A large room displays more modern renditions. One island is covered with evening gowns by Valentino, the Rome-based designer long known for his penchant for red. Some head-turners include an ankle-length red chemise by the Japanese designer Rei Kawakubu, who promoted black and gray to cult form in the 1980s, and the sexiest, a gown with a bustier top and skirt only of fringe from Alexander McQueen.
The show is spun off a book, "The Red Dress" (Rizzoli, $40). If you're planning to be in New York, call (212) 217-5800 for museum information. It's at Seventh Avenue and 27th Street.