TREND For cold temps, people seek hide

For staying warm in winter, there's nothing quite like leather.
SCRIPPS HOWARD
Leather and suede are cold-weather favorites, whether it takes the form of a jacket, pants or skirt.
The season's runways showed plenty of skin. Donatella Versace turned out a sexy suede trench coat. Gucci's Tom Ford constructed unstructured pieces with modern flair. Avant-garde designer Alexander McQueen created a fitted, belted leather blouse and many leather-accented pieces. Miuccia Prada turned out an '80s-inspired jacket with an ultrawide belt and teamed it with a contrasting long pleated silk skirt.
"Suede and leather have never gone out of style," said Mertie Elliott, owner of Clothes by Mertie. "It is extremely strong."
Big business
According to the Leather Apparel Association, retail sales for leather reached $4.15 billion in 2001. The organization attributes the success to designers who continue to include the fabric in their spring and fall ready-to-wear collections, the availability of a variety of leather types in wide price ranges, and technology, which includes the emergence of washable suede and leather.
"That is a good selling point," said Elliott of washability, "when you're talking about $50 to clean something."
Also, the variety of garments available -- from T-shirts to overcoats -- makes leather and suede attractive.
This season, the leather or suede jacket, as outwear or a separate, is a must-have.
"If you have to buy one thing, buy a jacket," Elliott said. "You can put that with practically anything. It can be dressy. It can be casual. It's very, very versatile."
Elliott is particularly keen on the suede type. "It's great with denim or knit pieces," she said.
Whether suede or leather, the jacket of the season is body-conscious. Little motorcycle and bomber interpretations are key.
"They are very fitted this year," said Gail Rackley, manager of Cache in Knoxville, Tenn. "They are very sexy."
Also most of them are cropped, which give them a youthful edge. A few, such as blazer styles, are a little more modest and hit at the hip.
Pants are also important for winter.
"You must have a pair of pants," Rackley said, who likes to mix them with an assortment of tops, such as beaded evening sweaters, feminine satin blouses and romantic velvet pieces.
"Pants are always strong," said David Horner at a Knoxville store called Classy Lady. "They come in a variety of different widths, from cigarette to bootlegs. The five-pocket-jean style is always popular. Then we have one that is dressier with flat front and a nice flair at the bottom. It's more contemporary."
Also look for skirts. Some are mini, while others go for maximum impact and graze the ankles.
Color
Hot hues for the skirts and other pieces include warm neutrals like chocolate, camel and caramel; winter favorites loden, burgundy and burnt-orange; and brights, including fuchsia and chartreuse. Patriotic red, white (winter) and blue also receive attention. However, black remains the color of choice.
"There is no way to beat black leather," Rackley said.
Black leather has reached iconic status, thanks in part to television, cinema and music. "The Fonz" was a cool cat in his black motorcycle jacket (he even water-skied in it -- maybe not so cool) on "Happy Days." In the film "The Wild One," Marlon Brando smoldered as a black-leather-clad gang leader. And Elvis Presley wore black leather for his 1968 comeback concert.
To make black leather fresh, manufacturers have incorporated distressed, glazed and sueded finishes.
Details provide even more dimension. Fringe, lacing, stitching and embroidery decorate many items, as do fur, studs and grommets. Raw edges, asymmetrical cuts and pleating create interest as well.
Leather and suede trim and panels also embellish many of the sweaters, suits, pants or other styles.